China reminded me that everything is not as it seems. I think I expected a country that was censored and shorted on the basic rights I get to experience every day. But instead I found capitalism, a citizen’s freedom to speak their mind more or less and a country hurtling into the role of a superpower. Oh yes and blue sky. Granted, there are things still a bit wonky by our standards. Such as the Chinese government’s take on what happened in Tiananmen Square and the price point difference between hitting a citizen with your car and hitting a peasant or farmer; a citizen’s family gets paid more money. When traveling to another country, I’ve grown accustomed to questioning not judging because there is always more going on than what we see.

Gap Adventures Highlights of China

I never planned on going to China, but when Monique offered it up last spring, I was overjoyed to have a friend to travel with. Instead of going it on our own, as there was no way I was going to learn Mandarin to get around, we joined up with a group of travelers put together by GAP Adventures. And what a group it turned out to be: Jason, a Torontonian, with an impeccable eye to see the beauty around him and the vocabulary to go with it. “Gorgy” and “So beautiful I could weep” don’t capture the complete being of Jason, but our common love for the back streets of Shanghai and Yichang will always be ingrained in my soul. Jens and Frank were the German couple in the group. Not really a couple, just a couple of Germans who liked to torment me by speaking German infront me, knowing full well that I wanted to know what they were saying. Jens, with his infectious smile, liked to take portrait photographs, especially those of us eating. It became one of our favourite pastimes, followed closely by accidentally dumping water on each other. He and I would constantly being trying to take the artsy photos with our DSLR’s and Monique would be right there with her point and click. As for Frank, at first he started most mornings sullen and quiet, but turned into a smart ass as the day progressed, eyes flashing with mischief. One morning we were surprised to be greeted my a smiling Frank, who we found out, found coffee. That day we had a full day of smart ass Frank, and we liked it. Yun and Rich were the official couple of the group. Married and from Boston, I found their paring to be fun. We learnt that Yun (rhymes with fun), had a odd fascination with horror flicks. The glint she’d get in her eye when talking about her favourites or wielding a rusty sword over her head, told us what she could be capable of on a Halloween night with enough fake blood. Rich was a total sport and gave us many laughs. From his toothy grin to his dance number on stage at the Acrobat show, he always seemed to be in a good mood. And last but not least was Monique, my other half on this trip. Monique was game to walk through the back streets of Shanghai with me and get lost and un-lost and lost again. Somehow we always made our way home. She, thinking I planned it that way, and I just curious as to what was beyond that corner. Our seven-some was led by our ever faithful George, a local to Xi’an, who graciously opened his door to show us his new apartment where he and his new wife now lived. He helped me get airline tickets to Shanghai, when I realized on our last day of the trip, I was indeed not leaving from Beijing but Shanghai the next day. My time and enlightenment in China was enhanced by this company I kept for those 16 days, and I will forever be grateful for the new friends I have made and the old friendship I have deepened.

Corinne, Frank, Jason, Yun, Rich, Jens, Monique

We visited 9 destinations in our 14 days together. Between the big cities of Shanghai and Beijing, we bonded over a 3 day boat ride on the Yangtze River, complete with karaoke; we were serenaded on the canals of the Venice of the East in Zhouzhuang; we were impressed by the Terracotta Warriors in Xi’an; played some Ma-jong in Pingyao; in Yichang we got lost in the markets and loved it; were awed by the Grottoes and Buddhas just outside of Datong; we were English teachers on the overnight train; and enjoyed another piece of history, tramping our way on part of the Great Wall, and a great experience it all was.

Regarding the photos, most are mine, but I’ve included photos from Yun, Rich, Frank and Monique, and I mentioned where the photos are theirs. I can’t take all the credit for some of these great shots and moments in time.

I could go on for pages about my trip, but instead let’s just get some dinner sometime. Maybe even Chinese!

-Corinne

Show me the China Photos!

We got a Chinese massage the other night in Yichang. What I can say is it was memorable. After 10 minutes in a bubble rolling around on water, which occurred earlier in the day, don’t worry I have photos, I was in desperate need for a little TLC. TLC isn’t exactly what I got, but I did get worked. First off, massage in China can be a gamble. Most parlors we walked past, had scantily clad women in short short skirts with heavy makeup looking utterly bored. Apparently prostitution isn’t too lucrative of a business but it is legal. Street drugs, however, are not and are punishable by death. Our guide, George, searched out a legit massage establishment and was quite excited to embark on this excursion with us. We three girls, Yun, Monique and I and Jason were led to a room in the far back of the building, the rest went to another establishment, legitament as well I was told. They must have strict labour laws stating attendents can’t be taller than 5 feet because we all had to duck due to the ceilings getting smaller and smaller like a Willy Wonka house.

Eventually we were led to a room where 3×3 recline bed/chairs were lined up. There was a tv infront of us (where we watched Beverly Hills Cop 2 in Mandarine/Cantonese which should have been a sign for a non-relaxing massage) and there were stools for the attendents to sit upon. We were stripped only of our shoes and socks and pants rolled up. Our foot soaking included a neck massage. Mine needed it after the whiplashes of falling on my butt over and over in the bubble. I’m sure the somersaults didn’t help either. The neck massage was, let’s just say, quite forceful and strong. Those girls may be small, but they have the grip of lions. This was just a prelude of what was to come. Our feet! Here is where I realized singing a soprano note is translatable into any language as “Holy shit that hurts!” … so is lamaze breathing as well. We have been on our feet alot. ALOT! And the depth these girls were getting to on our feet, let’s just say I think my bones moved. We all tried to cope as best we could. These girls really seemed to know what they were doing so we trusted them with our pain. Each followed the same synchronized pattern so we knew what was going to happen next, which didn’t really make us more prepared for it.

After our feet were thoroughly beaten into submission, came the fuel and fire. Yes fire. A little box at their feet included a glass cup, fuel and a small torch. The torch was dunked into the fuel and lit. By our feet, it was then rolled around in the small jar to absorb the oxygen and then quickly placed on our feet. Fire cupping, is an acupressure technique used to relieve stagnation. And since, through reflexology, the foot is connected to the rest of the body, it’s supposed to relieve things like the common cold, bronchitis and upper respitory issues. Maybe this worked, however for us it was just really cool and finally not painful. Once the attendents got solid suction on our feet, they wrapped them up and let us sit for a few minutes.

When they returned and performed miming to tell us to flip around, we got our backs and legs worked on. The highlight was definitely the reflexology on the feet, but the encore performance was just as memorable. I’ve never had my skin rolled before, and I’m not sure if I want to have it rolled again, but it was something to experience for sure, as is the theme of this post. Skin rolling is taking the skin between one’s fingers and rolling it out in a pinching motion. Doesn’t it sound relaxing?!

So yes the massage was interesting. And since I get alot of the same run of the mill massages it was a really neat experience to have a Chinese massage. Will I seek it out again? I can’t say never, but it won’t be a first option… maybe if I need my feet bones realigned again.

The past few days have also included seeing the terracotta warriors (all except one had been destroyed and reconstructed), the three gorge dam, a cycle along Xi-an city wall (about 14k and very very bumpy), an interlude at a disco club, the Chinese Opera without all the opera, and a 14 hour train trip that flew by, due mostly to helping a young girl, Jessica, read her 7 page speech about China. Which is where we found out “rural” and “billion” are very hard for her to say and funny for us to hear.

Next we head north for some more great adventures, but probably no more massages… but you never know.

I have been here for 4 days and feel like I know quite a bit of Shanghai. I spent my first two days wandering the streets not really paying attention to the direction I was going which was ok because there are AMAZING buildings here and I hear that Beijing is even more impressive. For those of you who warned me about Shanghai weather, it was sunny and blue for the first two days. Now it’s overcast but we’re leaving today so no worries there.

So far China reminds me of South America. That is the back streets of Shanghai. Granted everywhere there are large shiney buildings. Some gaudy like the Pearl Tower, others impressive like the Jin Mao building with 88 floors. But it’s the back streets where the locals live, those who don’t live in the skyscraper apartments. Their laundry hangs from the windows. Plumbing is attached to the outside of the building. Little children running around with their bottoms out for the world to see. There is what we would call poverty but I think I’ve gotten used to seeing people not live as I do and knowing the difference between real poverty and the hunger behind it. I’m sure I can learn more. Granted, people living in these homes tucked away could use more, but they looked happy sitting out on the chairs in the alley ways watching their children play and laughing at me walking by, getting lost in the maze and passing them numerous times.

I understand why GAP requires insurance when traveling. There are the streets of Rome where drivers are impatient and ready to bump into you. And the traffic of Cairo with it’s haze and many many vehicles going somewhere not so fast. But here in Shanghai, it’s a different sort of controlled chaos. Adding to the cars are scooters, motorcycles, bicyclists and pedestrains all on the streets. Everyone is aware as they move in this finely orchestrated dance. Streets lights mean nothing unless you are in the more fancy districts. Sidewalks are places where not pedestrians walk but where concrete and bricks are unloaded. And through all this, I haven’t seen one vehicle puff out black smoke from their exhaust. Sitting in this internet cafe right now is doing more bad for my lungs with the smokers near by than walking along the streets. Some vehicles are so quiet. I don’t know if they are electric or just coasting without the engine on. It’s quite an amazing thing. Actually what is amazing is I haven’t been bumped into yet as I take charge and step out into oncoming traffic. They’ll dodge me, it’s what they know.

Map of China

This year I head to China with a good friend Monique.  China was her idea and she kindly asked if I’d like to join her.  During the past few years, I have traveled mostly alone so it’s great to have someone else to get excited with.  She and I will meet in Shanghai and join up with GAP Adventures and do the Highlights of China tour.  I worked with GAP before on my trip to Peru back in 2002 and really liked how they did things.  Small groups (this time I think we have 7 people including us), local guides and the freedom to explore on our own.

Before Monique mentioned it, I honestly had no interest in going to China.  I guess Asia has always been a little further on my list but I have no particular reason why.  Maybe gorillas and jungles seem more appealing at this point.  But after some research and reading, I am now quite excited about seeing China, her culture and her people in the country of origin and not just Chinatown in San Francisco. 

Chinese Visa

China is very particular about their visas as I have found.  As I was between statuses of an H1-B and a Green Card, I wasn’t sure of the paperwork I needed to bring to the Visa office in San Francisco.  Also I was warned/advised to have all my accommodations determined before hand.  Since my first couple days were in flux as to where I was going to stay, I didn’t have anything booked for that period.  However I did bring my passport, my tour confirmation, my flight confirmation, a passport photo and my application form.  I got up at 6am to hop aboard Caltrain for a 40 minute ride north to the city.  From there I walked another 40 minutes to the Chinese embassy.   Here I waited another 40 minutes in line before the doors opened to allow people inside.  There were about 30 people ahead of me already.  Once inside I received a number and waited.  This part was easy.   I just watched a scrolling screen in English and Chinese characters notifying people things they probably already should have known before they had gotten there.  Within minutes, it was my turn.  It was only 9.15 but the lady behind the glass seemed to already have had a long day.  Her microphone kept cutting out so I couldn’t understand what she was saying, as was mine and she was not happy at all about the paperwork I provided.  Eventually with much reluctance and arguing, she turned me away.  I needed more paperwork.

My second visit to the consulate was less dramatic.  Again the train ride and walk but I dropped off my paperwork relatively easier than last time.  I had booked a hotel so that was covered and I brought my Adjustment of Status paperwork which after some coddling, they allowed.

Four days later, I picked up my visa.  While waiting in line there was a man directly in front of me who seemed to think there were imaginary ducks overhead.  He would fart loudly to the left of me and wander to the right looking in the sky and around, possibly thinking this distraction would cover up the fact he farted quite loudly.  Luckily it didn’t smell.  But he did do this 2-3 times.  I would have waited a day line with this guy compared to the next companion I had in my line inside to pick up the visa and passport.  This “amazing guy” often said amazing… to the point it could be a drinking game.  He was nice, but I felt like he had just been released from jail and hadn’t been around people in a long long time.  He was teaching in Korea for two years (maybe North from his exclamations of how amazing our country is with our freedom and choices) and was planning on teaching in China next.  I told him I was an Engineer and he proceeded to go off about how Engineers are closed minded people who cannot change.  His father was an Engineer.  I see daddy issues.  He eventually chilled out on another topic talking about how important it was to be positive and not hold grudges to then go off again about Engineers and how they are necessary for running shoes, because he likes his running shoes, but he wished they would loosen up.  He was actually swearing at this point.  It was a little awkward and I had momentary lost the humour of the situation, so I told him to not worry and that I wouldn’t take what he was saying personally.  After all I work with computers and not actually engineer real things. ….. Then we talked about computers and how he doesn’t get them but he uses them.  Once that window opened up for me to get my paperwork and run, I thanked him quickly for something then rushed to the window, almost reaching through to hug the lady on the other side.

So that’s the start to my China trip.  Oh, I am bringing US Dollars to China, so I shouldn’t have the same start as I did in Egypt where I was waiting for money from my friend.

I’ll try to keep in contact via Multiply and Facebook but I heard these might be blocked in China so I’ll see what I can do.  If you sign up as my friend on Multiply, you’ll get automatically notified when I do a blog post.  Otherwise you can wait until I get back.

再见    –  zài jiàn    –   Goodbye!